The Enchanted Isles

Every once in a while I look out over the ocean and think to myself, “I’m in the frickin’ Galapagos Islands!”  Some part of me still thinks that this could all be a dream.  After hearing about this place so often while growing up, it’s incredible to actually be here experiencing it.  However, it’s funny to me that even after learning about the Galapagos Islands so often in school, I had no idea what it was actually like.  In fact, I’m pretty sure I did not know that there were people living here until my class on Galapagos in college with Dr. Walsh.  When I think of the “Enchanted Isles” my first thought is of the boobies, sea lions, marine iguanas, giant tortoises, and other amazing creatures that live here.  I never think about the people. 

Charles Darwin is usually the first person to come to mind; however, his real contribution to the islands' history was incredibly small.  In fact, he pretty much screwed up everything he possibly could.  He didn’t bother to label most of his samples.  He had to depend on other people’s notes once he actually realized what he could have had.  The sailors on his ship ended up eating all the giant tortoises and throwing their unique shells overboard.  His actual research concentrated on the mockingbirds, not the finches.  I sort of feel like everything I ever learned about Darwin was a lie. 

San Cristobal is not really a tourist destination.  When tourists do come, they get off their cruise ships, walk along the Malecon (the boardwalk and the nicest part of town) and then take a bus the four blocks to the Interpretation center or to one of the many beaches nearby.  Then, they climb back on their bus, which takes them back to their cruise ship and away.  They never see the real Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.  Don’t get me wrong.  This place is so incredibly beautiful.  It takes my breath away each and every morning.  But there is trash everywhere.  Stray dogs, cats, and chickens can be found on every street.  The way that people live here is what I would call minimalistic.  They have everything they need.  People in this place are not poor; however, neither are they rich.  Many of the houses have the beginnings of an upward extension, metal poles that stick up into the sky like lightning rods, so that when their residents have the money to build up, they can.  The houses themselves are small and have that unfinished feeling to them.  The nicer places are usually hotels.  People come here to experience Galapagos, but they really don’t get the chance to do so. 

I’m interested to see what we do on our island hopping tour at the end of the month.  We’re going to visit the two other touristy islands, Santa Cruz and Isabela.  I’m curious to see how we’re going to see those islands, if we’ll only see the façade put on for foreigners or if we’ll get to see the real Santa Cruz and the real Isabela. 

Full Moon

The Real San Cristobal

Las Tijeretas

Frigate birds at Las Tijeretas

Me on the beach!

Last night there was a drum circle for the full moon.  A bunch of locals and tourists got together at the new Café del Mar and jammed and relaxed and had a great time.  I’ve been to drum circles on campus before, but this was somehow very different.  It reminded me of how far away from home I am, how different life is here.  There isn’t a tremendous amount to do here.  Sometimes I feel trapped on the island, as you can't really go anywhere else easily.  I can’t imagine how people who actually live here feel.